The eye of the beholder, a love and a hate relationship with Singapore
July 29, 2011
Here is something my friend Xin Bei posted on her blog. Originally from Kuala Lumpur, she has been a student here in Singapore for a year now, and all the time I have been extremely jealous of that fact (that she studies in Singapore, not music).
Singapore, the city where dreams come true. For generations, Singapore has born in its name the vibe of the exotic, of foreign places, magic and mystery of the seven seas, adventure. Whenever the ships left Hamburg to bring home goods from magical lands, they would go through Singapore for sure. A hundred years ago this meant the sailors stopped by in a place where all the cultures of South East Asia clashed, a dirty, stinking place with weird/interesting food, cheap prostitutes and and dark taverns full of pirates. Only the food remains until today, but the ships still come through here. You go swimming on Sentosa – in itself a fascinating islet – and you can see them. Hundreds of ships out there, stopping by for a refreshment on their long journey between Chinese factories and European outlet stores. The sailors enjoy a trip to Sentosa meanwhile, but they are not alone anymore because there is another dimension of travel that has consolidated Singapore’s reputation. Whoever wants to travel to Australia or New Zealand, ie about every German high school graduate who is too lazy to apply for university yet, goes through here. Fly from Amsterdam to Bali, from Frankfurt to Jakarta, from London to Sydney – you pass by here. Unfortunately today all these people only see Changi Airport and completely miss out on the beauty of the city, but still the name Singapore bears the goosebumps of the travel into a different world. This is the gateway into the unknown, and part of the unknown itself. It is the magical island that sums up everything the far east has to give.
You can guess my perception of living here – I love it. I want to put my feet in the concrete of the sidewalks so nobody can force me to go, I want to tie myself to a palm tree to be able to stay. It is this far east magic that makes every day here into an adventure. It is also the amazing weather which makes me just happy. It is summer, high summer, year-round. And even when it rains, it doesn’t rain for long. So unlike home. It is also the fact that this is a city of five million.
Almost 21 years in a rotten little hicksville of uneducated, backwards idiots built up enough energy to catapult me all the way here, and make even a short trip only as far west as Sumatra feel wrong. I grew up having nothing. I had to drive half an hour in my car just to spend a little time with my friends, and how many possible activities were there to do with my friends? Sit around at someone’s home and watch movies or play board games. Clubbing? Yes, there was one club. Worst club in the world and not a desirable place to go. Eating out? Yes, there was a McDonald’s, 30 minutes away. There was also a Burger King. A few Turkish kebap places and Italian ice cream parlors. Everything eating out beyond that was reserved for special occasions as it was expensive.
And what do I have here? Five minutes walk away is a bus stop from where I can be taken right into the heart of the action. The ride into busy Bugis costs me little more than $1. A bus ride to the town where most of my friends lived in Germany cost 4 Euros, which equals to $7. And having that said – I could never take the bus there. Last bus service on that route was 6pm, after maybe five, six services. Here in Singapore, you only wait ten, in the worst cases twenty minutes for a bus. Trains are even better, never more than a five-minute wait and they take you anywhere really quick. I have two train stations within walking distance of my home, served by three of the four lines this city has. Getting anywhere is easy, quick, and cheap. No need to bother about driving, which implies no need to bother about enjoying a cold beer on a hot day, or parking. Just hop on the bus or the train.
There are many more reasons to love living here. And they are the same reasons not to live where I was forced to live for so long. I need this, a small village is a sling around my neck. Here, where shops and food places are open 24/4, where public transport is more than a euphemism for a few school buses, where trains run under the ground and houses are so high they rub the belly of the blue sky, is where I belong, where I can be truly myself and truly happy.
My friend – a city kid herself – has a whole different perception. In her blog post she writes about how much she misses her home, the safety, the freedom, her dogs. I completely understand the thing about the dogs. She has three – I only have one and every time I see a picture of him it tears my heart wide open. I am much more emotionally attached to dogs than humans. I don’t miss humans – primarily because they can always send me an email anyway. But a dog? Nothing can replace the emptiness in your heart a dog leaves. But still, I would rather have him here than me going back there.
The feeling of safety is indeed an issue I can not argue against. I have faced quite some problems over here and at times it is challenging to face them all alone. It’s part of growing up. I do feel safe here, though. Ever since my old house almost burned down last winter, I have not really viewed this hundred-year-old shack as a particularly safe place. And crime is a word that gets forgotten by your vocabulary memory when you move to Singapore. They have so little crime here they even have to make up criminal offences and exaggerate little things. What is missed is the feeling of comfort you get at home. In particular, I hate, hate ironing. But who is going to do it for me? I also dislike going outside to buy me food when at home I could just slip into the kitchen to eat for free. All in all, it is a minor inconvenience and one that is required by growing up, I guess. It is relative for me too since I moved in with a lovely family and my landlady treats me a little bit like a son.
The freedom however is so much greater here. I mentioned before how much bigger the opportunities are here. How many more things to do without having to plan them. If you want to go somewhere with your friends there is no need to plan a day, designate drivers, whatever. Just hop on the train and send them an SMS so they hop on the train too. Furthermore, without my parents breathing down my neck, without having to share my bathroom with obnoxious kids, without anyone asking me where I am off to when I go out – freedom is endless.
Arguably, Xin Bei’s thoughts are understandable and I can relate to them. However, luckily, the upsides of being a foreign talent in a beautiful city weigh much more. She is coming back to Singapore tomorrow – after having been away for months. I have been here for one month and I haven’t met her. She already looks forward to the next time she gets to go to Malaysia in five months, while I am dreading the day I have to fly back to Europe in five months. Astonishing how different a situation can be viewed by people.

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